Packhorse bridge and Scandal Beck, Smardale Through a drift of flowers, a perspective opens up to Scandal Beck spanned by a medieval packhorse bridge. There's a disused sandstone quarry and once there was a pub. The beck is a Site of Special Scientific Interest, within the Eden catchment. Eden, a peaceful scene now but over the centuries when sandstone and limestone quarries were active and the railway was being built it must have been very different. Above Scandal Beck, up on the fell, the OS map says Gallows Hill. If malefactors were hanged up there the sight would have been a warning visible to all who passed this way.
As I looked for butterflies amongst the flowers a lady stopped to share the moment. She told me she had recently lost her husband and found comfort in her faith. She seemed at peace, here in Eden.
A perspective on Gallows Hill reminds me Eden was lost long ago. This week's news in the UK is about the fall from grace of TV presenter Hugh Edwards. And a horrific stabbing in Southport, followed by nation-wide riots. The peace and tranquillity of Smardale is a welcome respite, the loveliness of flowers and butterflies to be found along the disused railway line, perspectives onto a farming landscape and the open fell.
A perspective on Gallows Hill reminds me Eden was lost long ago. This week's news in the UK is about the fall from grace of TV presenter Hugh Edwards. And a horrific stabbing in Southport, followed by nation-wide riots. The peace and tranquillity of Smardale is a welcome respite, the loveliness of flowers and butterflies to be found along the disused railway line, perspectives onto a farming landscape and the open fell.
Scotch argus is a specilaity here at Smardale. The butterfly occurs at only two sites in England so butterfly enthusiasts are here today, seeking Scotch argus. Yesterday was another rainy day but today there is cloud with intermittent sunshine and it's still and fairly warm. Talking with a man with a butterfly net and a couple of serous photographers I learn a few Scotch argus have been seen, but we have to seek them out. The time is right, the weather is suitable but still the butterfly is hard to find. I have one image of a Scotch argus settled deep in grass, wings open but only partially visible. Another settles on marjoram flowers, wings closed so the underwings show. The quality of the image depends on how the light falls and it helps to know the habitat ( look for blue moor grass, the foodplant of the caterpillar) and jizz. Scotch argus is a small butterfly and in flight it looks the colour of dark chocolate.
31st July, a hot and sunny day, some 24 degrees by mid-afternoon. And it's been the same for the last couple of days. Scotch argus are more lively, with a flurry of several butterflies on the wing and coming down into short grass. One settles in short turf beside the sunny path, wings open.
Today, we begin our walk by Smardale Hall and head up toward Smardale Fell, taking to the heather which I hope to find in full bloom. Lingy intake, says the OS map, a place of heather. Grass of Parnassus is budding and coming into flower at the foot of the fell, on damp ground. The morning begins with cloud and the heather fell looks dark. Heather or LIng is budding but only one or two plants have richer colour and open flowers. There are a few clumps of bell heather beginning to fade. Coming off the fell, we find more Grass of Parnassus and we linger over the wall which is made up of gathered stone, limestone where we always find fossils, and chunks of sandstone. Both were quarried here at Smardale. Whoever built this wall has marked the geology by erecting one gatepost of limestone and one of sandstone and we sit on the stile to have lunch. Smardale Viaduct, built of sandstone quarried here, is being restored. Story vehicles are parked on the Viaduct and a workman in high-viz orange is abseiling down to the foot of the arches. There are vistas down Smardale Gill and up toward the double limekiln on the Heritage Railway Line, (disused and now the floral way) the limestone quarry above and out onto the open fell, Crosby Garrett Fell.
Today, we begin our walk by Smardale Hall and head up toward Smardale Fell, taking to the heather which I hope to find in full bloom. Lingy intake, says the OS map, a place of heather. Grass of Parnassus is budding and coming into flower at the foot of the fell, on damp ground. The morning begins with cloud and the heather fell looks dark. Heather or LIng is budding but only one or two plants have richer colour and open flowers. There are a few clumps of bell heather beginning to fade. Coming off the fell, we find more Grass of Parnassus and we linger over the wall which is made up of gathered stone, limestone where we always find fossils, and chunks of sandstone. Both were quarried here at Smardale. Whoever built this wall has marked the geology by erecting one gatepost of limestone and one of sandstone and we sit on the stile to have lunch. Smardale Viaduct, built of sandstone quarried here, is being restored. Story vehicles are parked on the Viaduct and a workman in high-viz orange is abseiling down to the foot of the arches. There are vistas down Smardale Gill and up toward the double limekiln on the Heritage Railway Line, (disused and now the floral way) the limestone quarry above and out onto the open fell, Crosby Garrett Fell.
As we begin the low fell-side track to Smardale Gill Viaduct vistas open up. An old hazel has ripening nuts. A contorted hollow-trunked rowan has ripening berries and there's a crab apple. Springs emerge from the fell-side and we pass the site of a disused sandstone quarry as we look across the gill toward the limekilns and limestone quarry. Then we come upon butterflies, Common blue and Scotch argus.
'This is the best view in England,' a geologist once told me. 'you should come here every week to see how it changes over the seasons.'
'This is the best view in England,' a geologist once told me. 'you should come here every week to see how it changes over the seasons.'
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