
A perspective on Gallows Hill reminds me Eden was lost long ago. This week's news in the UK is about the fall from grace of TV presenter Hugh Edwards. And a horrific stabbing in Southport, followed by nation-wide riots. The peace and tranquillity of Smardale is a welcome respite, the loveliness of flowers and butterflies to be found along the disused railway line, perspectives onto a farming landscape and the open fell.
Today, we begin our walk by Smardale Hall and head up toward Smardale Fell, taking to the heather which I hope to find in full bloom. Lingy intake, says the OS map, a place of heather. Grass of Parnassus is budding and coming into flower at the foot of the fell, on damp ground. The morning begins with cloud and the heather fell looks dark. Heather or LIng is budding but only one or two plants have richer colour and open flowers. There are a few clumps of bell heather beginning to fade. Coming off the fell, we find more Grass of Parnassus and we linger over the wall which is made up of gathered stone, limestone where we always find fossils, and chunks of sandstone. Both were quarried here at Smardale. Whoever built this wall has marked the geology by erecting one gatepost of limestone and one of sandstone and we sit on the stile to have lunch. Smardale Viaduct, built of sandstone quarried here, is being restored. Story vehicles are parked on the Viaduct and a workman in high-viz orange is abseiling down to the foot of the arches. There are vistas down Smardale Gill and up toward the double limekiln on the Heritage Railway Line, (disused and now the floral way) the limestone quarry above and out onto the open fell, Crosby Garrett Fell.
'This is the best view in England,' a geologist once told me. 'you should come here every week to see how it changes over the seasons.'