The Paps of Jura Sailing to Colonsay, the whirlpool of Corryvreckan is not far off. A fine day with vistas of The Paps – a landmark of the Inner Hebrides. As prelude to the tidal island of Oronsay we explore a circuit of the south east coast of Colonsay, The Hangman’s Rock, jutting from Beinn Eibhne, could be a landmark on our return crossing from Oronsay- the weather deteriorates in the afternoon. We look out toward Jura and The Paps and toward Oronsay. We check tide times with the lady at the shop and post office.
Ditches in the Outer Hebrides are full of flowers, including bog pimpernel – a delicate flower that opens only as the sun shines. My companion finds a puff ball the size of a deflated rugby ball. I spot a pair of common blue butterflies mating and stop to photograph them. Cows and calves wander the sandy beaches, always with the backdrop of the Paps of Jura which appear each day in different mood.
There are no markers over the sands to Oronsay, but a farmer transports a flock of sheep for fresh grazing and his tracks suggest the way. Wear trainers and you’ll get your feet wet because there are a couple of channels to cross. Even before we arrive on Oronsay I’m struck by the deep ochre colours and patterns of seaweed. Before we visit the Priory ruins we intend to climb Beinn Oronsay. At 93 metres it should be an easy climb, if- as our guide book suggests- we approach from the east end. We like a challenge, so we do not. We turn west toward the coast into a zone of boggy ground , superb for flora and great for yomping which is daily fare in the wild terrain of the Inner Hebrides. Yomping is off-piste and trackless, a lurch over boggy ground that sucks at your boots and has you seeking tussocks for something of a foot- placement. I love bog flora, so bog asphodel, orchids and cross-leaved heath delight me. Yomping is slow and ponderous, mine is although my athlete friend will reach the heather ascent well ahead of me and takes it in his stride. The west face of Beinn Oronsay has knee-high, thigh-high heather, a tough shrub sometimes used in thatching. Heather, Calluna vulgaris, is budding. I love heather in all its phases and these colours are stunning. The magenta of bell heather dominates in drier and rockier terrain. Yomping is wearying, but the after-effects make me eager for more. To climb uphill through high heather, to balance, your whole body is dedicated to the task. Afterwards, I feel invigorated and supple. And we left behind everyone else who made the Oronsay crossing some while ago, so there’s cachet in yomping.
We reach the summit as the weather deteriorates, so on with our waterproofs. The walking guide is right, the eastward descent to the ruined Priory is far easier. The RPSB manages Oronsay habitat for corncrake and chough. We hear corncrake in the hay meadows about Priory Farm, deep in umbellifers. But it’s raining heavily so after a study of tombstones in the Priory we head for the crossing. Visibility is poor but the farmer is driving back across the sands having off-loaded his sheep. And my friend’s navigation is first rate.
We reach the summit as the weather deteriorates, so on with our waterproofs. The walking guide is right, the eastward descent to the ruined Priory is far easier. The RPSB manages Oronsay habitat for corncrake and chough. We hear corncrake in the hay meadows about Priory Farm, deep in umbellifers. But it’s raining heavily so after a study of tombstones in the Priory we head for the crossing. Visibility is poor but the farmer is driving back across the sands having off-loaded his sheep. And my friend’s navigation is first rate.
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