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Scarlett Point and Rushen Abbey: Castletown, Isle of Man

4/10/2018

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PictureLIttle egret at Scarlett Point
Scarlett Point is great for bird-watching. Hidden  in a car, we could observe the little egret's hunting tactics.  The wind ruffled his white plumage, his panache- a  wispy crest of feathers for this elegant white heron.  His feet stirred amongst seaweed, searching, his long black bill stabbing and his toes trailing ochre weed.
Cormorant in silhouette on rock, eider off-shore. Sunlight illuminated Castletown across the bay. 
Always the possibility of  wildlife drama.

Above Ramsey, a merlin in flight.  The first time we visited Scarlett Point a photographer was packing up. I asked if he'd seen anything and he showed us a photograph of a merlin hunting here.  So each time we returned I hoped the bird might show.  A hunting merlin- an image to dream of!
The geology at Scarlett Point is remarkable.  There's limestone pavement criss-crossed with fissures and pock-marked as if someone strode over  tropical sands and their footsteps fossilised.  There has been quarrying for limestone both on the shore and inland. In the 11th century Castle Rushen was built from its limestone.  As was much of Castletown.
NB Click on images to view, to enlarge and for captions.  And they will right themselves!
Back in medieval times, would you prefer to inhabit Castle Rushen or to join the monastic order at Rushen Abbey?  The latter, we decided, although David  reminded me that  a woman  probably did not have that choice.    Rushen Abbey is engaging, seeks to engage anyone who may visit-  if only for the memorable scones and chocolate cake and comfortable café.  Fun and high-seriousness meet at Rushen Abbey, which is how I like it. You can learn about architecture and the building project, the simplicity of the Cistercian ideal, the practicalities of their daily lives-  work, prayer, learning, growing vegetables. And the infirmerer who ensured the abbey garden grew the herbs he needed to tend the sick.  And the link with Furness Abbey, directly across the water.  Diversions all along the way: here's a trunk full of the simple garments a monk would wear, an irresistible invitation to put them on.   Plainchant is the ambience of Rushen Abbey. There are musical instruments for children of all ages to try out.  Rushen encourages us to be child-like: curious, playful and full of wonder, eager to learn.  No idea what time it might be, this millennium, or that.  Almost everyone else in the café thinks its lunch time but we dispel  time and go for scones and chocolate cake. Scones to die for, says an elderly visitor who couldn't resist.
There are images I'd like to show, but cannot.  The merlin we saw, too fast, too far off.  Masquerading as a Cistercian monk?  
At Rushen Castle there's a picture of Bosworth Field and a Stanley Earl of Derby kneeling at the feet of the victorious Henry Tudor and presenting him with the crown.  The Stanley Earls of Derby were a significant presence but they chose to live within their castle walls but in a comfortable house.  All those dark spiral staircases and a labyrinth of rooms!  Strolling outdoors, within the walls of Peel Castle, we dance on the grass to  the strains of Elizabethan music, we come upon the grave of a Viking lady whom we'll meet again in the excellent museum at Douglas.  And at Peel at the House of Mannanin.     

For geology at Scarlett Point; Culture Vannin Scarlett Landscape
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    Jan Wiltshire is a nature writer living in Cumbria. She also explores islands and coast and the wildlife experience. (See Home and My Books.)

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