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Sizergh in October

14/10/2023

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Spindle, Red Cascade, Sizergh Gardens 

Welcome the sun and a bright day.   September was mild, gloomy and wet, so autumn colour comes late.   Today,  there's a chill in the air and the gardens are sunlit under a blue sky.  
We stop by the orchard at Holeslack to look for  redwing and fieldfare. Last year, they fed on windfalls beneath the trees but there are few apples and no winter thrush.  The National Trust has created new paths through woodland,  by wood-pasture and  a pond where a heron calls and ducks fly up in alarm.
Holeslack Farm is distinctive with its tall Westmorland chimney and, close by, there's a barn and an old orchard.  Birds flit amongst the tree-tops  feeding on the seeds in cones.  The conifer is tall with dense foliage on high, so high it's back-aching standing on the path looking directly up into the canopy.  Maybe winter thrush, maybe mistle thrush- the the birds feed silently so it's a mystery.   The wood is silent and peaceful, perhaps because the path isn't yet officially open.  We met a walker who had come that way and she said it was open so we ignored the barriers and explored.  
The lake at Sizergh is fringed with fruiting shrubs, with Guelder Rose,  spindle, rose  and rowan.  Each autumn I hope for a coincidence of abundant fruit and rosy autumn leaves, knowing it's chance.  Strong winds can rip off leaves before they reach full colour and fruitfulness varies from year to year.   There needs a foil of clear blue sky and today we have it.   There is one especial tree we seek,  a beautiful rowan where last autumn bullfinch called as they fed on its lavish crop of bright pink berries. Rowan, Sorbus Vilmorinii. 
​Circling the lake, we stop to admire spindle leaves and branches adorned with pale lichens.    The most fruitful is Spindle, Red cascade, a low shrub with pink capsules bursting to show the orange seed within.  And leaves beginning to show autumn colour.   Behind these shrubs are taller trees and, amongst them,  that remarkable Rowan, Sorbus Vilmorinii.  Alas, poor tree. It's the ghost of itself, drained of life and vigor.  As if it gave everything gloriously last autumn and is now spent.   The tree is bare of fruit and almost leafless,  it does not look well. 
The National Trust opens-up new paths so visitors can explore the countryside surrounding Sizergh Castle.   There are families with small children and one particular child whose excitement is palpable.   Now we can read about the Strickland family and how these gardens developed through time.   Suddenly, the sky grows dark and everyone looks for shelter from a sharp shower.   We head for the arbour at the end of the terrace walk. It looks out upon a herbaceous border bight with dahlias, where black grapes show against a rosy brick-wall.   Last time we were here hundreds of House Martin mustered about the walls of the tower, chattering loudly.   Now they are gone and the nest I photographed is deserted, the window daubed with bird shit.   Seven minutes and the rain will be over,  that's the forecast on my friend's phone and we see the clouds disperse and the blue return. 
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    Jan Wiltshire is a nature writer living in Cumbria. She is currently bringing together her work since 2000 onto her website Cumbria Naturally

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