Red deer, Tarbert Bay, east coast of Jura The fairest of fair days to make the Tarbert Crossing, that narrow isthmus where Loch Tarbert almost bisects the Isle of Jura. So, west to the head of the sea-loch, then returning along the track and east to Tarbert Bay. Walking the wilds of Jura, it’s rare to come upon a track but in the 18th century Tarbert was the most populous place on the Isle of Jura with 29 families. Tarbert of the Crossings avoided the whirlpool of Corryvreckan to the north and dangerous currents off the southern tip of Jura. Today, this is a tranquil and solitary place. We come to islands of the Atlantic seaboard prepared for anything a maritime climate can give, this weather is magnificent.
The cloudscape is sublime, colouring the sea-loch all shades of aquamarine. Aquamarine, the waters of the sea. Sunlight on luxuriant sea-weeds. Flowers of stonecrop and lichen over the rocks. A flock of geese on the northern shore. Red deer lift up their heads from grazing to follow our progress. I’d like to explore the sheltered waters of Loch Tarbert under sail: the caves, raised beaches and shingle terraces, arches and basalt dikes. A rowing boat awaits us by the water’s edge. Let’s go further.
To the east, farmed deer close to a ruined chapel and tombstones thick with lichens. We trace family names we will meet again at an exhibition of local history in Jura Church at Craighouse.
The sole road on the Isle of Jura peters out as it heads to The North End, our next destination. We cross the Lussa River, past Ardlussa House and shooting estate. A massive bull lies in the sun, his bulk spilling into the narrow way. Across the burn, his cows and calves. Butterflies galore, micro- moths, ringlets alight on a thistle to mate. Golden-ringed dragonfly with striking compound eyes. We are alert for golden eagle and the short-eared owl but July is a quiet time for birds so not today. We might have headed for Corryvreckan but the weather is fair, the seas are calm and there’s so much to explore. I wouldn’t have missed Tarbert of the Crossings, it’s delightful.
The sole road on the Isle of Jura peters out as it heads to The North End, our next destination. We cross the Lussa River, past Ardlussa House and shooting estate. A massive bull lies in the sun, his bulk spilling into the narrow way. Across the burn, his cows and calves. Butterflies galore, micro- moths, ringlets alight on a thistle to mate. Golden-ringed dragonfly with striking compound eyes. We are alert for golden eagle and the short-eared owl but July is a quiet time for birds so not today. We might have headed for Corryvreckan but the weather is fair, the seas are calm and there’s so much to explore. I wouldn’t have missed Tarbert of the Crossings, it’s delightful.
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