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Wensleydale: Askrigg, Bolton Castle and Aysgarth Falls

9/10/2017

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PictureSeason of mellow fruitfulness 8th October
 The warmth of this October day was unexpected and, over-dressed,   I glowed like an apple in this Askrigg garden. A baked apple.  Askrigg, the location of 'All Creatures Great and Small.'  It seems so long ago.
 After the Lake District fells, the open grassy sweeps of Wensleydale and its limestone scars were a delight.  A network of field-walls, barn, so many barns and sheep.   

 Limestone scars north of the River Ure dominate the landscape.  And the sweep of limestone grassland, grazed by sheep.  After our lunch-stop by a footbridge crossing Eller Beck we came upon industrial archaeology and lead mining. Near Woodhall, at Ivy Scar, The Knott Mine was owned by Lord Scrope of Bolton Castle in 1546.   Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, owned mines in Cumbria in the 16th century.  Mine-owning is a lesser known aspect of the lives of Elizabethan courtiers- the property portfolio.   The landscape fascinates me: limestone scars and scree slopes (the natural process of erosion) descend into the tips and spoil heaps of the lead mine.  And what is the time-line here? The track to The Knott Mine can't be 16th century.  No time to explore further, unless I'm to lose my companions who do not stay to take photographs and to ponder the puzzle.
A track leads to The Knott Mine and the disturbed foreground is flooded.  Bright green resembles bog  and the rusty red is cotton grass. History and natural history calls for more time. In this limestone landscape the sub-terrainean  picture must be intricate, with shake holes and swallow holes and water percolating down into underground cave systems.  
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Ivy Scar with limestone screes descending to the Knott Mine and spoil heaps.
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Looking west from below The Knott Mine.
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 At Bolton Castle we sat on a bench by an orchard of ripening apples and pears. We apricated, soaking up the sun like apricots on a south-facing wall.  And I fell into a reverie:  once-upon-a-time I was bridesmaid at Ripon Cathedral, then a reception here at the castle.  And a while before that, in 1568, Mary Queen of Scots spent six months as a prisoner. It is said that Lord Scrope gave her a room with a south-west facing view. And that she had the freedom to hunt in the surrounding countryside. She might have ridden that contouring path, Oxclose Road, toward Ivy Knott and the lead mines, passing the settlement where the lead miners lived. Only prestigious buildings survive: Bolton Castle, its church and the lovely cottage with its orchard-  all humbler dwellings are gone.
Aysgarth Falls marked the conclusion of our walk, then we headed for the garden of The George and Dragon to quench our thirst after a hot day.  Apricating and sun-soaked,  with cool drinks.
  Driving west and home to Kendal, into the low sun, sheep lit in a halo of warm light.  A memorable day and companionable day.
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    Jan Wiltshire is a nature writer living in Cumbria. She also explores islands and coast and the wildlife experience. (See Home and My Books.)

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